Hiking with Miró // Mallorca
Hiking with Miró // Mallorca
Views east across the sea to Menorca, the mountainous Cap Formentor peninsula to the north and a rusted cannon perched atop a high summit next to me, had left me slightly perplexed as I munched a sandwich I’d pulled from my bag for lunch. True, the sun was beating down and there was no obvious way the cannon could have been hauled up such steep paths but it was more than that – Mallorca was nothing like the image I’d grown up with. Scenes of drunken carnage in the western resort of Magaluf, that’d spawned its own TV documentary series, had stained the reality of this island having a real beauty, steeped with history, culture and a mountainous spine of ragged peaks along its northern coast.
The viewpoint of Penya des Migdia, a peak of 387m, is part of a stunningly wild coastal day hike that hugs the peninsula at the top of Alcúdia Bay in the north-west of Mallorca. Starting at the rustic Ermita de la Victoria monastery, the winding stony track soon darts off along a hidden forest track, branches and ferns pushed aside, soft underfoot, the smell of fresh rain emerging from the undergrowth. Views tumble down towards a ravenous blue sea, the path slowly rising as cliffs shade the searing sun overhead. Passing through an ancient watchtower built into the rocks, a view of Cap des Pinar spreads out ahead, waves smashing into the shoreline rocks far below. A smattering of centuries old military buildings poke through a grassy plateau, a truly remote outpost. The soldiers would have enjoyed being far from the marauding invaders below. It was on the peak above that stood the cannon, a plaque declaring that cannon balls would blast ships far into the bay from this vantage.
The path returned on itself back to the stony track, a tinge of sadness in leaving such an idyllic and satisfying track. Onwards up a fading path towards the high point of the peninsula before dropping down towards Coll Baix beach, a treat of a dip in the sea just as the last shards of sunlight lit the shingle, sweaty clothes shed and a scream held as bodies submerged into the cold.
The path looped around along dried out riverbeds, a sure danger in heavy rains, climbing back towards the start. 14km of hiking bliss, less than 10km if you miss out the stunning sea swim, but that misses something special.
To the north, the peninsula leading to Cap Formentor has some of the most dramatic viewpoints on the island. A beautiful short and rarely hiked path is the zigzagging old pass up the side of La Roca Blanca, just after the road tunnel, which led to the pass being abandoned after the tunnel opened. Below, after meandering down woodland paths, is the beautiful inlet and Cala Figuera beach, old timbers washed up, rotting fishing apparatus clinging to the rocks.
Views east across the sea to Menorca, the mountainous Cap Formentor peninsula to the north and a rusted cannon perched atop a high summit next to me, had left me slightly perplexed as I munched a sandwich I’d pulled from my bag for lunch. True, the sun was beating down and there was no obvious way the cannon could have been hauled up such steep paths but it was more than that – Mallorca was nothing like the image I’d grown up with. Scenes of drunken carnage in the western resort of Magaluf, that’d spawned its own TV documentary series, had stained the reality of this island having a real beauty, steeped with history, culture and a mountainous spine of ragged peaks along its northern coast.
The viewpoint of Penya des Migdia, a peak of 387m, is part of a stunningly wild coastal day hike that hugs the peninsula at the top of Alcúdia Bay in the north-west of Mallorca. Starting at the rustic Ermita de la Victoria monastery, the winding stony track soon darts off along a hidden forest track, branches and ferns pushed aside, soft underfoot, the smell of fresh rain emerging from the undergrowth. Views tumble down towards a ravenous blue sea, the path slowly rising as cliffs shade the searing sun overhead. Passing through an ancient watchtower built into the rocks, a view of Cap des Pinar spreads out ahead, waves smashing into the shoreline rocks far below. A smattering of centuries old military buildings poke through a grassy plateau, a truly remote outpost. The soldiers would have enjoyed being far from the marauding invaders below. It was on the peak above that stood the cannon, a plaque declaring that cannon balls would blast ships far into the bay from this vantage.
The path returned on itself back to the stony track, a tinge of sadness in leaving such an idyllic and satisfying track. Onwards up a fading path towards the high point of the peninsula before dropping down towards Coll Baix beach, a treat of a dip in the sea just as the last shards of sunlight lit the shingle, sweaty clothes shed and a scream held as bodies submerged into the cold.
The path looped around along dried out riverbeds, a sure danger in heavy rains, climbing back towards the start. 14km of hiking bliss, less than 10km if you miss out the stunning sea swim, but that misses something special.
To the north, the peninsula leading to Cap Formentor has some of the most dramatic viewpoints on the island. A beautiful short and rarely hiked path is the zigzagging old pass up the side of La Roca Blanca, just after the road tunnel, which led to the pass being abandoned after the tunnel opened. Below, after meandering down woodland paths, is the beautiful inlet and Cala Figuera beach, old timbers washed up, rotting fishing apparatus clinging to the rocks.
It’s hard to leave the wilds of Mallorca behind, knowing there is so much more to explore, the unexpected joy of the coastal paths and brisk swims fresh in the mind. A stop at Pollença to wander the old city walls and climb up to Puig de Maria, a 14th century nunnery, gave a last view of the valley and mountains before heading into Palma.
Palma’s cathedral, in its evocative coastal location, is commanding. The narrow spiderweb streets behind swallowed hours of exploration time before finally emerging for the last stop, the Esbaluard contemporary art gallery where a room full of artwork and sculpture by Joan Miró pleasured the eyes and imagination. He spent most of his life in Palma at his workshop just outside the city, his work leaving the final lasting smile.
Order Issue 6: Adventurous guide to Patagonia, Peru, Ecuador, Panama, Costa Rica + Western USA.
It’s hard to leave the wilds of Mallorca behind, knowing there is so much more to explore, the unexpected joy of the coastal paths and brisk swims fresh in the mind. A stop at Pollença to wander the old city walls and climb up to Puig de Maria, a 14th century nunnery, gave a last view of the valley and mountains before heading into Palma.
Palma’s cathedral, in its evocative coastal location, is commanding. The narrow spiderweb streets behind swallowed hours of exploration time before finally emerging for the last stop, the Esbaluard contemporary art gallery where a room full of artwork and sculpture by Joan Miró pleasured the eyes and imagination. He spent most of his life in Palma at his workshop just outside the city, his work leaving the final lasting smile.
Order Issue 6: Adventurous guide to Patagonia, Peru, Ecuador, Panama, Costa Rica and Western USA.
Order Issue 5: Iran / Atlas Mountains, Morroco / Utah Hiking, US / Madeira Island / Italy / Scottish West Coast / Peak District.
