Skip to content
Words and Photos: Carsten Coles

Machu Picchu + Sacred Valley // Peru // Issue 6

Words and Photos: Carsten Coles
Words and Photos: Carsten Coles

Machu Picchu + Sacred Valley // Peru // Issue 6

Words and Photos: Carsten Coles

Getting the early morning bus up the switchbacks of the gravel road, rising from the valley floor through dense forest, seemed a little lazy until we saw the people slowly plodding up the worn stone stairs that interweaved with the road, sweat already showing on their clothing. The air was thick with morning haze, the sky awakening to a deep river of blue.

Getting into the ruins of Machu Picchu as they opened before the crowds arrived and the fresh morning air dissipated into the muggy afternoon heat seemed sensible; managing the expectations that it was an overrun tourist site. Images and emotions can lead our minds astray; the stone walls of the ruins rolling down the grassy slopes without a soul in sight had a euphoric effect, expectations torn into gleeful pieces.

Following the newly imposed routes through the complex, brought in to manage the crowds that seep in later, was like being on a treasure hunt as a kid, wondering what was coming next and jealous of what others have found. When a low rope denied us the chance the see down the other side of the peak, a quick glance and a skip over the rope took us briefly onto another route. That feeling of being naughty took my thoughts back to being a child full of wonder, seeing photos of Machu Picchu and wanting to visit those ruins perched high on a narrow peak.

Walls that seamlessly joined, temples built under immense boulders and the majesty of the surroundings invoked those childhood dreams; the river far below looping around the peak in a gigantic bend giving the impression of a site cut off from the rest of the world.

Getting the early morning bus up the switchbacks of the gravel road, rising from the valley floor through dense forest, seemed a little lazy until we saw the people slowly plodding up the worn stone stairs that interweaved with the road, sweat already showing on their clothing. The air was thick with morning haze, the sky awakening to a deep river of blue.

Getting into the ruins of Machu Picchu as they opened before the crowds arrived and the fresh morning air dissipated into the muggy afternoon heat seemed sensible; managing the expectations that it was an overrun tourist site. Images and emotions can lead our minds astray; the stone walls of the ruins rolling down the grassy slopes without a soul in sight had a euphoric effect, expectations torn into gleeful pieces.

Following the newly imposed routes through the complex, brought in to manage the crowds that seep in later, was like being on a treasure hunt as a kid, wondering what was coming next and jealous of what others have found. When a low rope denied us the chance the see down the other side of the peak, a quick glance and a skip over the rope took us briefly onto another route. That feeling of being naughty took my thoughts back to being a child full of wonder, seeing photos of Machu Picchu and wanting to visit those ruins perched high on a narrow peak.

Walls that seamlessly joined, temples built under immense boulders and the majesty of the surroundings invoked those childhood dreams; the river far below looping around the peak in a gigantic bend giving the impression of a site cut off from the rest of the world.

Ollantaytambo_Sacred Valley
Ollantaytambo_Sacred Valley_portrait

The journey had started higher up the valley when the plane had landed at Cusco, without our bags. The dire reviews of LaTam, Peru’s national airline, were becoming a reality and it would be another six days and many fruitless calls later before we were reunited with our bags. Objects can always be replaced so with giddy smiles of arriving in this new country, we headed straight from the airport to Pisac, dropping 400m to sleep at a more comfortable 3,000m.

Emerging in the morning to a sleepy town with cobbled streets lined with old stone houses and locals passing by in traditional dress, was re-energising. A winding path that leads to Inca watchtowers, ceremonial sites, housing and agricultural terraces starts from the town square. Climbing swiftly, the path emerges onto a high mountain ridge at the entrance to the Sacred Valley; the altitude of 3,500m the first test for the lungs and legs. The views were expansive across the valley floor and along the ridge to ruins jutting from unlikely places. Sometimes the path weaved through narrow tunnels dug into the rock and along exposed ridgelines. Had I had the energy I would have been tempted to run the trail but I was thoroughly content to walk idly along, imagining life in the Inca times.

Ollantaytambo, an Inca fortress and temple complex further along the Sacred Valley next to the only still inhabited Inca town, was the site of a rare Inca victory against the Spanish in 1536. Wandering the narrow streets, with the Inca stone walls bringing welcome shade, took you back to simpler times; alas great empires interfering in everyday life continues today. Great platforms were etched into the slope that leads up to the temple complex, the subtle carving on the six monoliths of the Sun Temple contrasting sharply with their impressive size. Viewing Machu Picchu after seeing this living Inca town added to the feeling of awe when entering the ruins and a pleasing respect for the Inca culture, with a niggling curiosity of where their culture would be now if they had defeated the Spanish conquistadors.

Waynapicchu, the iconic mountain that rises high above the Machu Picchu complex, Inca stone steps dug into the steep and at times almost vertical peak, is the final stage of the Inca Trail. The deep blue skies of the morning change to a hazy steel as the temperature rises and it is our turn to sweat. The experience of climbing up the narrow stairs, edging along ledges and finally reaching the peak to view the complex from far above was in many ways the highlight of the whole Peru trip. Contemplating life under the shade of a tree, Machu Picchu underneath with sweeping valley views; cheesy maybe, but joyous and beyond our expectations.

Cusco is the city to recover and unwind, to remember the lingering highlights from recent days and when they start to fade, to venture out to the Inca ruins on the outskirts. A beautiful place where days drift easily with strolls along the old city streets past imposing colonial architecture; drinks in cosy bars in the evenings.

 

Itinerary: Cusco to Machu Picchu loop
Day 1: Arrive at Cusco airport, taxi to Pisac and sleep; Day 2: hike to Pisac Ruins (5km, 3hrs rtn), colectivo minibus to Ollantaytambo (1.5hrs); Day 3: Ollantaytambo town + ruins, train to Aguas Calientes (2hrs); Day 4: bus at 6am to Machu Picchu + hike to Waynapicchu, train to Cusco (4hrs); Day 5: rest + recover, wander main square area at night; Day 6 + 7: walk to Inca ruins at Sacsayhuamán, Qorikancha and further away; Tambomachay, Puka Pukara, Q’enco by day tour or colective; wander city; eat wonderful food, enjoy nightlife; Day 8: Overnight (Cruz del Sur) bus to Arequipa (10hrs) or fly home.

Order Issue 6: Adventurous guide to Patagonia, Peru, Ecuador, Panama, Costa Rica + Western USA.

In the same way that the complexity of Stonehenge in England can only be fully comprehended by understanding all the monuments in the surrounding area, Machu Picchu is part of a series of settlements and temples that run along the Sacred Valley, with some of the most impressive in Pisac and Ollantaytambo. The ruins on the outskirts of Cusco, especially Sacsayhuamán which can be walked to from the old town and Qorikancha in the centre, together with those in the Sacred Valley create an impressive overview of Inca culture.

The Sacred Valley is perfect for a bikepacking trip with smaller roads running along the valley floor and more adventurous routes up into the hills, with some lovely trail running routes including to the ruins above Pisac. Most people come for Machu Picchu and the surrounding hikes that lead to it, or take a surprisingly expensive train from Ollantaytambo to Aguas Calientes (locals get a cheap price), the underwhelming gateway town to Machu Picchu and the only other route in.

Machu Picchu was the highlight of Peru for us – more impressive and stunning than expected and less overrun with tourists than we had imagined. You need to book several months to get our favourite route through the complex and up the mountain behind: Circuit 4 + Waynapicchu.

The journey had started higher up the valley when the plane had landed at Cusco, without our bags. The dire reviews of LaTam, Peru’s national airline, were becoming a reality and it would be another six days and many fruitless calls later before we were reunited with our bags. Objects can always be replaced so with giddy smiles of arriving in this new country, we headed straight from the airport to Pisac, dropping 400m to sleep at a more comfortable 3,000m.

Emerging in the morning to a sleepy town with cobbled streets lined with old stone houses and locals passing by in traditional dress, was re-energising. A winding path that leads to Inca watchtowers, ceremonial sites, housing and agricultural terraces starts from the town square. Climbing swiftly, the path emerges onto a high mountain ridge at the entrance to the Sacred Valley; the altitude of 3,500m the first test for the lungs and legs. The views were expansive across the valley floor and along the ridge to ruins jutting from unlikely places. Sometimes the path weaved through narrow tunnels dug into the rock and along exposed ridgelines. Had I had the energy I would have been tempted to run the trail but I was thoroughly content to walk idly along, imagining life in the Inca times.

Ollantaytambo, an Inca fortress and temple complex further along the Sacred Valley next to the only still inhabited Inca town, was the site of a rare Inca victory against the Spanish in 1536. Wandering the narrow streets, with the Inca stone walls bringing welcome shade, took you back to simpler times; alas great empires interfering in everyday life continues today. Great platforms were etched into the slope that leads up to the temple complex, the subtle carving on the six monoliths of the Sun Temple contrasting sharply with their impressive size. Viewing Machu Picchu after seeing this living Inca town added to the feeling of awe when entering the ruins and a pleasing respect for the Inca culture, with a niggling curiosity of where their culture would be now if they had defeated the Spanish conquistadors.

Waynapicchu, the iconic mountain that rises high above the Machu Picchu complex, Inca stone steps dug into the steep and at times almost vertical peak, is the final stage of the Inca Trail. The deep blue skies of the morning change to a hazy steel as the temperature rises and it is our turn to sweat. The experience of climbing up the narrow stairs, edging along ledges and finally reaching the peak to view the complex from far above was in many ways the highlight of the whole Peru trip. Contemplating life under the shade of a tree, Machu Picchu underneath with sweeping valley views; cheesy maybe, but joyous and beyond our expectations.

Cusco is the city to recover and unwind, to remember the lingering highlights from recent days and when they start to fade, to venture out to the Inca ruins on the outskirts. A beautiful place where days drift easily with strolls along the old city streets past imposing colonial architecture; drinks in cosy bars in the evenings.

 

Itinerary: Cusco to Machu Picchu loop
Day 1: Arrive at Cusco airport, taxi to Pisac and sleep; Day 2: hike to Pisac Ruins (5km, 3hrs rtn), colectivo minibus to Ollantaytambo (1.5hrs); Day 3: Ollantaytambo town + ruins, train to Aguas Calientes (2hrs); Day 4: bus at 6am to Machu Picchu + hike to Waynapicchu, train to Cusco (4hrs); Day 5: rest + recover, wander main square area at night; Day 6 + 7: walk to Inca ruins at Sacsayhuamán, Qorikancha and further away; Tambomachay, Puka Pukara, Q’enco by day tour or colective; wander city; eat wonderful food, enjoy nightlife; Day 8: Overnight (Cruz del Sur) bus to Arequipa (10hrs) or fly home.

Order Issue 6: Adventurous guide to Patagonia, Peru, Ecuador, Panama, Costa Rica and Western USA.

In the same way that the complexity of Stonehenge in England can only be fully comprehended by understanding all the monuments in the surrounding area, Machu Picchu is part of a series of settlements and temples that run along the Sacred Valley, with some of the most impressive in Pisac and Ollantaytambo. The ruins on the outskirts of Cusco, especially Sacsayhuamán which can be walked to from the old town and Qorikancha in the centre, together with those in the Sacred Valley create an impressive overview of Inca culture.

The Sacred Valley is perfect for a bikepacking trip with smaller roads running along the valley floor and more adventurous routes up into the hills, with some lovely trail running routes including to the ruins above Pisac. Most people come for Machu Picchu and the surrounding hikes that lead to it, or take a surprisingly expensive train from Ollantaytambo to Aguas Calientes (locals get a cheap price), the underwhelming gateway town to Machu Picchu and the only other route in.

Machu Picchu was the highlight of Peru for us – more impressive and stunning than expected and less overrun with tourists than we had imagined. You need to book several months to get our favourite route through the complex and up the mountain behind: Circuit 4 + Waynapicchu.